Hello both and thanks for your replies.

Thanks for the info on the rear windows, makes sense if they are plastic.  Nice idea but no good over time.  Would not be against a later radio in time; good to know they can be swapped.  Noted on the remap and S2Smarts... would be good to just have it checked over and anything they find rectified to put the car in to daily use with some assurance that all is well-- the map can wait.

I had a look at the ISOFIX link and asked the dealer to look again for the hidden mountings but I think it looks like they are there but just not with an access slit in the upholstery unless specified from new-- a nice solution!

I have a seatbelt fixed car seat in my old 1987 Volvo 480ES as we are keeping our baby rear facing as long as possible.  It works but it is a PITA to get him in and out of because of the belt.

As for the 'Advisory' on the headlight lens covers....
They are acrylic and yes the suns UV rays deteriorate them, BUT...
they can be polished to improve them.   S2smarts can do that easily
for them/you whilst it is in their hands for an work you want to be done,
but just remember to write it down on the list of jobs you want doing, ok.

If it is going in to S2smarts then they'll do a good job on sorting any work
that needs doing.  However, 'they' do not do remaps.  Those were done
by Tony of Tune4performance who had a rolling road in the old premises
that they shared back in Rickmandsworth, but when the landlords forced
them to move Tony retired and sold off the rolling road.
There are other companies who can offer remaps, but most will just 'flash'
the ECU with a generic map which has often been proved not to be that
much of any improvement over the original !   HOWEVER..... 
As yours appears to have the silver 'i' on the CDi badge on the tailgate
then yours is a 68hp.  The 95hp  CDi is exactly the same in every respect
bar the map....so anyone who offers a remap for a 95 can map your ECU
to the same level (no matter what they might tell you). I know this as
my first CDi was a 68 and it eventually (after a fair few other mods) ran
at over 120hp....but my recommendation would be 115hp max, or you
might end up needing a new clutch sooner than expected.

As for the rear door quarter light windows...they are acrylic, and they all
go like that. No simple cure, even polishing them doesn't make them clear.
A bit clearer, but not that much. A hell of a job to replace them, and I'm
not even sure MB have any spares anywhere globally.

As for the radio, looks like the film over the LCD screen is lifting due to age
and the dreaded sunlight UV rays.  I think I might have a spare head unit
somewhere, if not then consider upgrading to a a modern unit (it is a double
DIN), and you'll gain Bluetooth and possibly even USB.  I would checkout the
ICE section of the Forum...in the 'child board' sub section (the Technical Guides)

Re your query reference ISOfix in the back seat...
If yours has that, then see/read this :-https://www.forfour.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=36.0

And finally....roof bars/rails create drag (a lot more than you think) so only put them on as
and when needed.

Damn, no ISOFIX!

Hey,

First post out of the introductions part!

I have seen a Passion spec diesel with the AMT box for sale for sale here on Gumtree, duplicated on eBay. https://www.gumtree.com/p/smart/2006-smart-forfour-1.5-cdi-passion-5dr-softouch-auto-hatchback-diesel-automatic/1474746777

I like the idea of the diesel with the AMT box and like that this is the top spec one.  Ultimately I'd get it in to S2Smarts who aren't to far away and get it serviced and remapped.

I just called the dealer as I need to know if it has ISOFIX and he is getting back to me.  Am I right in thinking that as a 2006 car the likelihood is good?

The fish sticker on the side is apparently a bit of a scrape that the previous owner has creatively covered up!
The fixed rear door windows look opaque.  Is that normal? I would probably like to replace these or remove the film if that is all it is.
The radio looks like it has lost some of the finish on the screen.. is that repairable?  I could live with this.


Registration KY56 FRO.

Does anyone see anything glaringly obvious in the pictures or descriptions that I am missing?

Last MOT minor defects:

• Front Lower Suspension arm ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated both sides (5.3.4 (b) (i))

Last MOT advisories:

• Headlamp has a product on the lens but not seriously reducing light output both (4.1.4 (b)) looks to be now removed
• park brake excess travel
• Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint has slight play both (5.3.4 (a) (i))
• Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened all (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
• Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))
• Rear Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))

I though that £2395 seemed cheap for cars these days.

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001708696543.html

It looks like a direct fit. Mine also broke apart a few days ago. So I just ordered this one,
and will let know if it will fit (for someone who needs it also in the future).

Thank you for your responses!! This weekend, I erased error codes and did a deep cleaning behind the wheels with warm water. Surprisingly, both lights (ABS and yellow triangle) didn't turn on. I then drove more than 200 km with the car and still no sign of those Salt is a bad conductor and also a corrosive agent; I believe it might have affected ABS sensor measurements.

By the way, my  RF ABS sensors are almost new, 7 months ago I changed all bearing wheels and ABS sensors.

Regarding the C1200 error code I had, it seems that is related to "Wheel speed sensor (FR) system (open or short to earth or power supply)"


(List of errors from page 8 )
http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/colt/maintenance/Colt_2004_Workshop_Manual/35C_Traction_Control,_Active_Stability_Control_System.pdf

Or...you could just as easily looked it up in the General Information    ...

www.forfour.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1716.0

From below, everything seemed right; however, the OBD-II showed an error code C1200, indicating a short circuit in the EPS/ABS - front right. I will check the fuses tomorrow just in case.

replace the RF ABS sensor.

the correct battery to buy is the one that is fitted currently. the battery spec is usually on a label on the battery somewhere. pointless fitting a 'heavy duty' battery as you wont get the full benefit of it.

sorry to be very blunt.