Print

[mr singh]

its coming up to 2 weeks since i got my new forfour, and after driving it continuously since sunday, i have compiled a list of whats wrong with it.

1) difficult to all engage gears intermittently, im trying the cheapest options first before replacing the clutch - bleeding the clutch, replacing the gearbox oil. (GEAR OIL AND ADDITIVE READY TO TO DO THE JOB)

2) the handling feels odd, it doesnt feel stable on the motorway despite it being lower and being fitted with wider wheels compared to my old 1.1, possible tracking/tyre issue (NEW TIRES FITTED, 4 WHEEL ALIGNMENT TO DO)

3) there is a squeel on hard acceleration in gear and now and then when starting from cold which sounds like the drive belt is too tight/slack (TO BE SORTED)

4) 1 curbed wheel (caused by myself )

5) horn is a bit wheezy and pathetic, more so over the standard horn fitted. (NOT BOTHERING WITH IT)

6) 1 window switch broken (has been swapped with a rear one for now) (DONE)

7) the rear wiper/arm appears to be a non genuine

[CrazyG]

In respect of item 1)....
my advice would be to have a look at the linkage mechanism
at the gearbox. It's the most common complaint/issue.
http://www.forfour.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3070.0
or...
http://www.forfour.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=796.0
If that fails to cure/rectify the problem, then I'd suspect the clutch.

In respect of item 2) have the geometry checked, not just the tracking.
My CDI felt weird after I fitted the KW's, but was transformed completely
after being checked and set up via a 4 wheel overhead laser set up.
('Wheels in Motion' of Chesham).
Usually you'll find that the only place that has this sort of expensive
equipment is one known to specialize in setting up race cars (as well as
high end road cars). It cost me £72 for an hours work, but well worth it.

[mozilla]

You can probably tell if theres resistance in the gear changing mechanism or clutch/gearbox related. I remember when I changed the gearbox oil that made the biggest longterm difference. Get the oil up to temperature before changing though so all the crud stays desolved in it

[Problemchild]

6) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smart-454-Forfour-Driver-Passenger-Side-Electric-Window-Switch-A4548201010-/121476486563?fits=Model%3AForfour&hash=item1c489015a3:g:AM0AAOxyUfFTkZGb

hardly worth ringing merc for a price

JJ

[mr singh]

Getting it in to gear is the problem when its running, engine off its ok. One of the lads who i work with worked for Mitsubishi many years ago and he said that Mitsubishi had an additive that they put in after changing the oil in the gearbox... But he didn't say which car(s) it was on. I am the 6th owner and have no idea of the life it has had before myself or the yth owner for that matter as it was sat on his drive more times it was driven in the 3 months he owned it

Four wheel alignment is what i will have done regardless... Although the front tyres are at 2.5mm in the center which might not help.

As for the window switch, might get one of the parts lads to ring our smart dealer in group for a price first. Its not high on my list of things to do

[JonS]

You mention tyre treads at 2.5mm in the centre, the inference being that there is more tread on the outsides. Are the tyres overinflated, as that could cause 'odd' handling?

Also, is the steering wheel a different diameter? If the SB3 steering wheel is smaller than that on the 1.1, that might make the SB3 feel twitchy in comparison.

[Alex]

I'm afraid only a clutch kit will solve your gear selection issue mr Singh. The pressure plate's gone soft and doesn't let go of the clutch completely anymore.

The gearbox oil will not help with this, although it wouldn't hurt to change it as well while you're at it.

[mr singh]

Replacing the clutch is the last option... Dont really want to throw a clutch in and it be no better. Although strangely it went in to gear easily last night after my mum drove it...

Tyre pressures were on the low side when the previous owner brough it over, even though i pointed it out when i viewed it, 3 were at 24 psi and one at 10 psi. Repaired the puncture amd reset them to 34 psi (2 psi more than what they should be) all round. The steering wheel is smaller in diameter but it still feels unstable, given its got wider wheels fitted and its lower over my 1.1

[Scoobysook]

Could be the gear cables- maybe worth greasing them too.

[Alex]

If it's intermittent it would be worth changing the brake fluid and bleeding the whole system, but otherwise nothing else will help. The diaphragm of the pressure plate will likely be blue when you change it...

Stiff gear lever= selector/cables needs greasing. If all gears would be hit and miss then it would point to an issue with it. But it would also do it with the engine off.

Crunch in reverse= lack of synchro, straight cut gear + the extra one to reverse rotation means it's normal for it to crunch from time to time if you're in a hurry.

Snagging when trying to engage first or reverse only with the engine ON is clearly a clutch disengagement issue, the pressure plate has gone soft. Engine off everything works fine because nothing is turning so it's like the gearbox is disconnected from the flywheel and shifting is seamless.

[mr singh]

But its not just 1st and reverse... Its every gear, its just noticable more so in 1st... But im not ruling out a clutch

[CrazyG]

I agree with Alex's last comment....but with an ammendment..

"Snagging when trying to engage first or reverse only ANY gear with the engine ON is clearly a clutch disengagement issue, the pressure plate has gone soft."

Replace the clutch, and while you're at it, bleed the clutch/brake system,
lube the linkage and cables...and then relax, knowing it won't need
looking at again for a long time..

[Alex]

Very correct mr G and mr Singh, I just said 1st and R because that's what gear you set off in, and setting off is the hardest part.

Changing up or down while the car is rolling can be achieved even with no clutch at all, so a limp pressure plate will be adequate for all but quick downshifts...

Pausing a moment or blipping the throttle when changing gears gives the revs a chance to match up to the next gear ratio.

You'll thank yourself after changing it mr Singh, then after it's nice and bedded in give those 47 extra hp a good run

[mr singh]

i can understand that the pressure plate can become weak and if its difficult to get 1st and reverse it does want a clutch BUT what i cant understand is why can i sometimes get it in perfectly sometimes and other times its difficult, surly if there was any issue it would be difficult to select all the time

[mozilla]

Didn't you have any of these 'quirks' with your old forfour? No excuse for not knowing...