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[El Tel]

That's great news! Congrats and well done!

[mr singh]

I got Castrol Manual EP 80W Gear Oil, checked against the MB list below.

im pretty sure its 75W90 GL4 that goes in the gearbox of the forfour. get the wrong oil and you could run into issues.

[CrazyG]

Cool1.3...I hate to have to tell you, but the correct specification for the
gearbox oil for a Smart 454 is MB235.72...and that is 75W-90   
As per the info that I put up on the Forum here:-
https://www.forfour.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1716.0

The 'similar' link obtained from the MB website you visited is:-
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/235.72_en.html

Ok..there have been some changes since I posted the info, but it
still is MB235.72 and 75W-90

[mr singh]

another reason to buy from the dealer if you dont know or are unsure of what fluids you need.

plus it saves the hassle of either sending what you have bought back, which will more than likely be at your expense, or cancelling the order and then having to reorder the correct stuff. had you have gone to with your local motor factors or the dealer, you would have gotten the right stuff.

[Cool1.3]

   
Should have checked the thread this week, I literally changed the gearbox oil last night...
I guess I just gave the gearbox a good rinse with new oil  Let the shopping re-start.
I was quite sure I had the right gear oil from reading this post (MB235.1 of which 90% are 80W)
https://www.forfour.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4016.0

In other news, the service is done so the list has shrunk (a bit less than I thought)

Service (last one was 12k ago, and it was just an oil change)
-Gearbox oil
-Replace brake discs and pads (the only MOT advisory)
-Sparkplugs
-Clean ignition coils
-Air filter
-Cabin filter
-Oil change (+filter)
-Clean and grease gearbox linkage (probably the lazy way)


Interior
-Find the cricket living in the back seat
-Lounge mod
-Aux cable
-Replace Interior light
-Figure out why the fuel gauge flashes (checked the resistors in the dash and they are fine)

Exterior
-Restore headlights
-Try to restore rear Plexiglas windows (same principle as headlights?)

Other issues
Figure out why the car jerks and revs wiggle about after changing gear, probably engine or gear box mounts...

PS
Here is a nice picture fo the cabin air filter, to inspire everyone to check theirs

[CrazyG]

...Figure out why the car jerks and revs wiggle about after changing gear, probably engine or gear box mounts...

Cleaned the TVA ? or the MAF.....if so, did you replug the harness to the TVA.
If you cleaned the TVA and/or the MAF...replace the MAF.
Engine mounts should be fine....as they hardly ever 'go'....ok, an odd one maybe
but you'd need to put a trolley jack under one side at a time (in a safe and
non-damaging position under the engine and then carefully jack it up to see
if the rubber is worn/cracked/whatever)...the bottom mount/engine stabiiser
does wear out...but careful...the bolts go into aluminium...and can be easily
stripped if tightened too much...so go carefully.

[El Tel]

flippin' 'eck, that filter was filthy

[mr singh]

I was quite sure I had the right gear oil from reading this post (MB235.1 of which 90% are 80W)
https://www.forfour.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4016.0

another reason to check with the dealer which oil it should take OR just buy it from the dealer. if they supply the oil and something goes ping, you can blame them. you can do that with online sellers.

according to shell lubematch you should use 75w90 gear oil, but you can (at a push) use 80w90 gear oil but given that our cars were filled with 75w90 gear oil, with little to no issues, id stick with that.

80w90 is more for heavy duty gearboxes (HGVs and vans) and isnt to MB standard where as 75w90 is more for passenger cars and does conform to MB 236.26

heres the link so you can check for yourself with you registration

https://www.shell.com/motorist/find-the-right-oil.html#iframe=L21vdG9yaXN0L2ZpbmQtdGhlLXJpZ2h0LW9pbC9famNyX2NvbnRlbnQvcGFyL2lmcmFtZWRhcHAuc3RhdGljL2lmcmFtZS0wMjExMjAuaHRtbCMvZ2IvZW4tZ2I

[Cool1.3]

another reason to check with the dealer which oil it should take OR just buy it from the dealer. if they supply the oil and something goes ping, you can blame them. you can do that with online sellers.

according to shell lubematch you should use 75w90 gear oil, but you can (at a push) use 80w90 gear oil but given that our cars were filled with 75w90 gear oil, with little to no issues, id stick with that.

80w90 is more for heavy duty gearboxes (HGVs and vans) and isnt to MB standard where as 75w90 is more for passenger cars and does conform to MB 236.26

heres the link so you can check for yourself with you registration

https://www.shell.com/motorist/find-the-right-oil.html#iframe=L21vdG9yaXN0L2ZpbmQtdGhlLXJpZ2h0LW9pbC9famNyX2NvbnRlbnQvcGFyL2lmcmFtZWRhcHAuc3RhdGljL2lmcmFtZS0wMjExMjAuaHRtbCMvZ2IvZW4tZ2I

I have now bought the right gearbox oil, Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle 75W-90 with the all important MB 235.72
I'll replace it next week and use the extra 0.3 litre at the beginning to clean out my mistake 

Cleaned the TVA ? or the MAF.....if so, did you replug the harness to the TVA.
If you cleaned the TVA and/or the MAF...replace the MAF.
Engine mounts should be fine....as they hardly ever 'go'....ok, an odd one maybe
but you'd need to put a trolley jack under one side at a time (in a safe and
non-damaging position under the engine and then carefully jack it up to see
if the rubber is worn/cracked/whatever)...the bottom mount/engine stabiiser
does wear out...but careful...the bolts go into aluminium...and can be easily
stripped if tightened too much...so go carefully.

Thanks!
I'll check this out, it is weird because it also does it when it's in gear and let go of the accelerator

[Cool1.3]

Hey everyone,

I have finally replaced the gear box oil with the correct one, this time around it only took 15 min.

I also found the source of the creak coming from the back, it was the tailgate lock. I greased it up and we are now silent, or as silent as you can be in these cars 

I have restored the lights using T-cut Headlight Restoration Kit, which was very cheap and included the polishing compound and sealer. We'll see how it holds up. (picture below)
Used the same on the rear quarter windows and got rid of the yellowing, but they are still very opaque, so not a perfect solution.

The last one that really bothers me is the jerking when I change gear, I'm gonna investigate a bit more but I think it will be the stabiliser bar under the engine. I have cleaned the TVA, no change, and I don't want to open up the throttle body unless I have to.
I was thinking of setting up a camera under the car, and purposely stall it to see how much the engine moves, and if the stabiliser bar rubbers have perished. Any other ideas for diagnostics?


This is the list now:
Service (last one was 12k ago, and it was just an oil change)
-Replace brake discs and pads (the only MOT advisory)
-Gearbox oil
-Sparkplugs
-Clean ignition coils
-Air filter
-Cabin filter
-Oil change (+filter)
-Clean and grease gearbox linkage (probably the lazy way)


Interior
-Lounge mod
-Fit rear speakers!
-Find the cricket living in the back seat (greasing the tailgate lock got rid of it)
-Aux cable
-Replace Interior light
-Figure out why the fuel gauge flashes ( It was the resistors, even though they looked fine)

Exterior
-Restore headlights
-Try to restore rear Plexiglas windows (same principle as headlights?)

Other issues
Figure out why the car jerks and revs wiggle about after changing gear, probably engine or gear box mounts...

[CrazyG]

Forget taking apart the TVA...it REALLY isn't worth it.
The usual issues with the TVA are the black gunge...
that you can clear with carburettor cleaner or bake caliper cleaner..
or the MAF sensor needing a clean...just don't touch the fine metal
filament in it.  A good few blasts with the carb cleaner shud do it..
and at worst...using a VERY soft old toothbrush...carefully.
Cleaning the TVA works for about 4 to 6 times, then renew the sensor.

I'd stick my neck out and say the bushes in the lower stabiliser bar
are knackered. Yes it's called a lower engine mount...but it's actually
to stabilise the engine from rocking back n forth...so stabiliser bar.

You can buy a new bar complete with bushes from MB..or there is
Superpro (polybush) SPF4013K to replace the big bush, but that's
expensive...or...
Powerflex...large bush PFF44-520 (about £40)  and small bush if
you want that as well PFF44-522 (about £34). Check on ebay.

See how much MB want for the complete bar first...it might be better.
A454 2400109   1.1 petrol
A454 2400209   1.3 + 1.5 petrol
A454 2400509   Brabus & CDI